Wood FAQ

Wood Installation Instructions

Inspect ALL materials carefully BEFORE installation. Wood and cork is a
natural product containing natural characteristics such as natural variations
in color, tone and graining. Some variation in color is to be expected in a
natural wood floor. Even though our product goes through many inspections
before it leaves the plant, it is the customer and installer’s responsibility for
final inspection prior to installation. Las Vegas Stone & Flooring
warranties DO NOT cover materials with visible defects once
they are installed.

Basic tools and accessories: broom or vacuum, chalk line, tapping block,
Hard Surface cleaner, hand or electric jam saw, miter saw, moisture meter,
safety glasses, straight edge, table saw, tape measure, 3M blue tape,
square, utility knife, pry bar. Use a urethane wood flooring adhesive, towels
and trowel if gluing or-a Bostitch Floor Runner (S3297-LHFZ) with 1” staple
(SB97) or a 50C Power Nailer for nailing with a 1-1/2” power cleat. (Note:
you must use a 3/8” or ½” adapter as appropriate).
Caution: Improper use of a power nailer can mark the surface of the flooring.

It is the responsibility of the installers/owner to determine if the job site subfloor
and job site conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable
for wood floor installation. Las Vegas Stone & Flooring declines any responsibility for
failure resulting from or connected with sub-floor, subsurface, fob site
damage or deficiencies after product has been installed.

Concrete Sub-Floors

New concrete slabs require a minimum of 60 days drying time before
covering them with a wood floor.

Light weight concrete
Light weight concrete that has a dry density of 100 pounds or less per cubic
foot is only suitable for engineered wood floors when using the floating
installation method. Many products have been developed as self-leveling
toppings or floor underlayment’s. These include cellular concrete, resin reinforced
cementitious underlayment’s, and gypsum-based materials.
Although some of these products may have the necessary qualifications of
Underlayment for wood flooring installations, others do not. To test for
Lightweight concrete, scrape a coin or key across the surface of the subfloor.
If the surface powders easily or has a dry density of 100 pounds or less per
cubic foot, use only the floating installation method.
Concrete sub-floors must be dry, smooth (level with 3/16” in a 10 foot.
Radius-1/8” in 6’) and free of structural defects. Handscrape or sand with a
20-grit #3-1/2 open face paper to remove loose, flaky concrete. Grind high
spots in concrete and fill low spots with a Portland based leveling compound
(min. 3,000 p.s.i.) Concrete must be free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax
grease, dirt and curing compounds. These may be removed mechanically
but do not use solvent-based strippers under any circumstances. The use of
residual solvents can prohibit the satisfactory bond of flooring adhesives. It is
important to ensure a proper bond between the adhesive and the concrete,
and planks or strips. Las Vegas Stone & Flooring Engineered hardwood flooring may be
on-grade, above grade, as well as below grade where moisture conditions do
not exist.

To ensure a long lasting bond, make sure that the perimeter of the
foundation has adequate drainage and vapor barrier.
Wood sub-floors

Wood sub-floors need to be well nailed or secured with screws. Nails should
be ring shanks and screws need to counter sunk. The wood sub-floor needs
to be structurally sound and dry. They should not exceed 14% moisture prior
to installation. If the sub-floor is single layer, less than ¾” thick, add a single
cross layer for strength and stability (minimum 5/16: thick for a total 1”
thickness). This is to reduce the possibility of squeaking Wood sub-floors
must be free of paint, oil existing adhesives, wax grease, dirt and urethane,
varnish etc. Underlayment grade OSB (not the wax side) is also suitable subfloors.

Particleboard is not an acceptable sub-floor for staple or nail
down installations
but can be used as a sub-floor in glue-down
installations. When installing over existing wood flooring, install at right
angles to the existing floor.

Sub-floor moisture check
Hard Surface Flooring Adhesive may be used for above, on-, and below
grade applications and on all common substrates, on- and below-grade
applications are susceptible to moisture and should be tested for moisture
prior to installation in several locations within the installation area.
Acceptable conditions for above-on-and below-grade applications are:
Less than 3lbs./1000 sq. ft./24 hrs. on a calcium chloride test.
Less than a reading of 5.0 on a Tramex Concrete Moisture
Encounter (moisture meter).
Wood Substrates must have a moisture reading of less than 14%
when using a Tramex or equivalent moisture meter.
To correct any sub-floor problems concerning moisture, either wait until the
sub-floor dries to meet specifications or use an appropriate moisture barrier.

Sub-floors other than wood or concrete
Perimeter glued resilient vinyl and rubber tiles are unacceptable
underlayments and must be removed.
Terrazzo, tile and any other hard surfaces that are dry, structurally sound
and level, as described above, are suitable as a sub-floor for Las Vegas Stone &
Engineered hardwood flooring installation. As above, the surface must be
sound, tight and free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax, grease and dirt.
Terrazzo and ceramic tile must be scuffed to assure adhesion.

Engineered planks can be installed over most sub-floors, and are engineered to be
dimensionally stable, making them suitable for installation over all grade levels. See all
information and installation guidelines below.

Warning! Do not sand existing resilient tile, sheet flooring, backing, or felt
linings. These products may contain asbestos fibers that are not readily
identifiable. Inhalation of asbestos dust can cause asbestos is or other
serious bodily harm. Check with local, state and federal laws for handling
hazardous material before attempting the removal of these floors.

Radiant Heated Sub-floors
Before installing over a radiant-heated floor turn off heat and wait until the
floor has reached room temperature. After installing the floor return the heat
to the previous setting.

Caution: The slab surface must never exceed 84* F in temperature.

Remove all moldings and wall-base and undercut all
door casings with a hand or power jam saw using a
scrap piece of flooring as a guide.

"Racking the Floor"
Whether your choose to install the floor with glue, nails,
or staples start by using random length planks from the
carton or by cutting four to five planks in random
lengths, differing by at least 6”. As you continue
working across the floor is sure to maintain the 6”
minimum between end joints on all adjacent rows.
Never waste material; use the left over pieces from the
fill cuts to start the next row or to complete a row.

Note: When installing a pre-finished wood, cork or bamboo floor be sure to
blend the wood from several cartons to ensure a good grain and shading
mixture throughout the installation.

There are two ways to install when using a hard surface adhesive (wet lay
meaning to lay directly into wet adhesive and dry-lay method meaning to
allow the adhesive to flash or to tack up.)

Caution: Whether you choose to install using the dry or wet method follow
all guidelines set by the adhesive manufacturer. By not adhering to the
guidelines you can void your flooring warranties.

Step 1—(Wet Lay Method)
Select a starter wall. It is
recommended to start the installation
along an exterior wall; it’s more likely
to be straight and square with the
room. Measure out from the wall the
width of two planks and mark each
end of the room and snap your chalk

Step 2
Spread the Adhesive from the chalk line to the starter wall using the
recommended trowel by the adhesive manufacturer. It is important to use the
correct trowel at a 45’ angle to get the proper spread of adhesive applied to
the sub-floor, which will produce a proper and permanent bond. Improper
bonding can cause loose or hollow spots.

Note: Change the trowel every 2000 to 3000 square feet due to wear down
of the notches. This assures you always get the proper spread of adhesive.

Step 3
Install the first row of starter planks with the tongue facing the starter wall
and secure into position. Alignment is critical and can be achieved by
securing a straight edge along the chalk line (2’x 4’s work well), or by top
nailing the first row with finishing nails (wood sub-floor), or sprig/pin nails
(concrete sub-floor). This prevents slippage of the planks that can cause

Note: The planks along the wall may have to be cut to fit since most walls are
not straight, and leaving an expansion space is not necessary with Las Vegas Stone &
engineered planks and strips.

Step 4
Once the starter rows are secure
spread 2-1/2 to 3 feet of adhesive the
length of the room. (Never lay more
adhesive than can be covered in
approximately 2 hrs.)
Place tongue into groove of plank or
strips and press firmly into adhesive
never slide planks or strips through
adhesive. Use a tapping block to fit
planks snug together at side and butt
ends. Clean any adhesive off the surface
before you install.
Use 3M Blue Mask Tape to hold
planks securely in place as you are
installing and continue the process
throughout the installation. Use
caution when using a rubber mallet to
butt material together, it can burn the
finish and cause marring.

Note: Never work on top of the flooring when installing with the wet lay

Step1—(Dry Lay Method) Start by selecting your starter
wall and measure out from
the wall 27” when installing
2-1/4” strip flooring and 30
when installing 3” planks.
This will allow adequate
working space. Snap chalk

Step 2
Apply adhesive from the chalk line out 2 ½ ‘-3’. Allow adhesive to flash as
per the instructions affixed to the top of the adhesive container. The humidity
chart will aid in allowing the appropriate flash time based on the temperature
and humidity.
Secure your starter rows with a straight edge (2’x 4’s). Install planks and
secure with 3M Blue Mask Tape as you continue throughout your
installation. If you must work on top of the newly laid flooring use a kneeling
Once the remainder of the floor has been installed go back to the beginning
and remove straight edges and spread adhesive on the remainder of the
open subfloor, allow flashing for the appropriate time and lay flooring as
instructed. Remembering that the planks closest to the wall may need cutting
to fit, due to irregularities along the wall. It is not necessary to roll the floor.

Clean Up
Use clean white terry cloth towels to clean as you go, along with mineral
spirits or water depending on what type of adhesive used. Both are easy and
convenient to use. Once the floor is completed clean the flooring as per
recommended by the adhesive manufacturer.
Light foot traffic is allowed after 12 hours but wait 24 hours after installation
to remove the 3M blue masking tape.

Las Vegas Stone & Flooring Engineered floors may be installed over wood sub-floors
staples or nailing cleats.
When installing Las Vegas Stone & Flooring products by nailing or stapling, it is
necessary to use
the proper type of Flooring stapler or nailer.
Recommended Staplers and Nailer
We have tested and recommend the Bostitch Floor Runner (S3297-LHFZ).
The recommended staple for the Bostitch Floor Runner is a 1” to staple

Caution: Las Vegas Stone & Flooring has tested the above-recommended tools.
staplers, staples, nailers and cleats may work as well however, since they
are not currently recommended if their use damages or fails to properly
secure the flooring the responsibility is the installers and not Las Vegas Stone &
Flooring .

Step 1
You must staple or nail 1”-2” from the ends and every 4"-6" along the edges.
This will help insure a satisfactory installation. It is best to set the compressor
PSI at 80-85lbs. to keep the staples from going through or breaking the
tongues. Improper stapling techniques can cause squeaks in the floor.
Adjustments may be necessary to provide adequate penetration of the nail or
staple into the nail bed. You want it flush in the nail pocket. Use a scrap
piece of flooring material to set tools properly before installation.
Before installation of the engineered flooring begins, install a 6-mil
polyethylene layer over the sub-floor. This will retard moisture from below
and may help prevent squeaks. Keep in mind there is no complete moisture
barrier system for staple or nail down installations.

Note: 15lb roofing felt or resin paper may be substituted for the polyethylene
and installed as below.

Installing 6-mil Polyethylene
Install the polyethylene parallel to the direction of the flooring and allow a 3"
overhang at the perimeter. Make sure each run of polyethylene overlaps the
previous run by 6” or more.

Layout the job
Measure out from the ends of your starting wall, 2 ¾" when installing 2 ¼"
strip flooring or 3 ½" when installing 3" planks and mark both ends. Where
possible lay the flooring at 90* angles to the floor joists. Make a chalk line
along the starting wall using the marks you made.

Begining installation
Place the planks with the tongue facing away from the wall and along your
chalk line. Use brads or small finishing nails to secure the first starter row
along the wall edge 1"-2" from the ends and every 4"-6" along the side.
Counter sink the nails and fill with the Professional’s Choice Filler that blends
with the flooring installed. Place the nails in a dark grain spot in the board.
The base or shoe molding will cover the nails when installed after completion
of the installation.
Blind nail at a 45*-degree angle through the tongues. It will be easier IF YOU
PRE-DRILL THE HOLES IN THE TONGUES. Nail 1"-2" from the ends and
every 4"-6" along the sides. It will be necessary to blind nail the next 2 rows.
A Stanley BT35 brad nailer with 1"-1-/38" brads can also be used to blind nail
and no pre-drilling is needed.
Continue the installation using an engineered wood flooring stapler, using
staples or nails. Nail or staple the flooring 1"-2" from the ends and every 4"-6"
along the edge tongues.

Final Touches
Install the proper trim molding at the doorways to achieve the transition and
along the walls to cover the edges of any gaps along the wall due to
Complete the job by using Filler that blends with the installed flooring to fill
any gapping along the joints and clean the finished floor. Las Vegas Stone & Flooring
are very easily maintained. No wax, no mess. Simply use a
Hard Surface Floor Cleaner and a terry cloth flooring mop.
STEP ONE: Sweep your floor to remove any particles that could scratch your

Warning: Vacuums with a beater bar or power rotary brush head can
damage a wood floor and never should be used.

STEP TWO: Apply the Hard Surface Cleaner directly to the terry cloth
flooring mop, not to the floor!

STEP THREE: Use a back and forth motion with the mop. When the terry
cloth cover becomes soiled, simply replace it with a clean one. Cleaning the
floor with a soiled cover could cause streaking. The covers are re-usable so
simple throw the cover in the wash and dry it as you would any towel.

Tips & Warnings:
Sweep regularly.

Remove spills promptly using Hard Surface Floor Cleaner and a
clean white cloth.
Use felt protectors under heavy pieces of furniture and chairs.
Use protective mats at all exterior entrances.
Spiked heels or shoes in need of repair can severely damage
your floor.
Never wet or damp mop your wood floors. Water can cause
damage to wood flooring.
Never use oil soaps, wax, liquid or other household products to
clean your floor.
The sun’s UV rays can change the color of your floor.
Keep animal nails trimmed.
Protect your floor when using a dolly for moving furniture or appliances. Never slide or roll heavy furniture or
across the floor.

If your floor becomes scratched or dull repairs can often be made
using repair accessories.